Things to do in Madrid for FREE

So, you’re either on a tight budget or just like to save money when you can. Who doesn’t?

I was a poor Aupair, with a monthly allowance that barely lasted two weeks when I got the inspiration to put together this list of free things to do in Madrid.

So, in no particular order, here are some freebies you can find around the city.

1) Museo de Reina Sofia

During limited hours each day, you can see some of the best collections of contemporary art for free, including famous pieces by Picasso, Miró, Dali.

The museum’s most famous painting is undoubtedly Picasso’s “Guernica”. In the mural-sized painting, Picasso shows the violence and tragedies of war with a scene depicting the bombings of the village Guernica during the Spanish Civil War (1937).

There are also incredible paintings by the eccentric, surrealist painter Salvador Dalí, including Cenicitas (1928) and El Gran Masturbador (1929).

Free Admission:

• Monday 7:00 – 9:00 p.m.| Wednesday – Saturday 7:00 – 9:00 p.m.
• Sunday 1:30 – 7:00 p.m.
• 18 and 29 April, 18 May, 12 October and 6 December

General ticket information & hours

Museum Website

Metro: Atocha (Line 1- light blue)

Address: Calle Santa Isabel 52, Madrid 28012

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 2) Parque del Retiro

Similar to Central Park in the middle of New York’s concrete jungle – Madrid’s Retiro Park provides an escape from the hustle and bustle of the city.

Retiro is Madrid’s largest park; it’s filled with beautiful gardens, fountains, statues, art galleries, street performers, and a “pond” where you can rent row boats.

For the active- there are walking/ running/ biking paths, outdoor exercise equipment, areas to roller-skate. For the (less) active- there are hundreds of places to relax, have a picnic, people watch. And for those with (hyper) active children- there are playgrounds where you can let them run wild.

During the Spring, make sure to check out the gorgeous “Rose” garden in full bloom.

One of the lesser-known parts of the park (and the best part in my opinion) is located in the back, along the street Avenida del Menendez Palayo. Here you will find beautifully landscaped gardens called Jardines de Cecilio Rodriguez. And the best part? The peacocks just walking freely around the gardens, strutting their stuff.

{Just a forewarning: they tend to close these Cecilio gardens a few hours earlier than they close the whole park.}

There are also free art exhibits in Retiro Park that are an extension of the Reina Sofia Modern Art Museum (see freebie #1 on the list). There including the Crystal Palace.

 Retiro Park Hours: April – September, 6am- 12am, midnight | October – March, 6am – 10pm

Retiro Park is located near several major Madrid landmarks including: Puerta de Alcalá, El Prado Museum, Thyssen Museum, and the Atocha Train Station. 

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3) Templo de Debod

Built more than 2,000 years ago near Aswan, Egypt- this ancient Egyptian temple now stands in Madrid’s Parque del Oeste, near Plaza de España and the Royal Palace.

How the heck did an Egyptian temple end up in the middle of Madrid?

Valid question. 

I asked myself the same question and after much research (all of 45 seconds later) I had an answer (thanks, Interwebs).

In 1960 when a dam was being developed in Egypt, archaeological sites became in danger of being destroyed. Spain gave aid to help save some of these priceless Egyptian monuments, and in return, Egypt donated Templo de Debod to Spain in 1968. 

The temple was dismantled stone-by-stone, sent to Madrid, reconstructed, and in 1972 it was opened to the public.

Visitors can walk inside the small temple. There are passageways with ancient hieroglyphics covering the walls. And in the little museum upstairs, there are photos documenting the history of the temple.

It’s a short visit, but worth it. And, if you time it right, just behind the temple you can catch some of the most beautiful views & sunsets in Madrid.

Temple Hours: 

Saturday & Sunday: 10am to 2pm.

(April 1- September 30) Tuesday to Friday| 10am-2pm and 6-8pm

(October 1 – March 31) Tuesday to Friday| 9:45am- 1:45pm and 4:15-6:15pm.

Closed: Mondays and public holidays.

 Metro: Plaza de España 
(Line 1- Yellow / Line 10- Dark Blue)

Just walk up the steps of Parque del Oeste and look for the Egyptian Temple that looks like it doesn’t belong.

Funny things/ Observations in Spain

1) The bootleg street characters walking around the main plazas. The funniest part is that when it gets really hot, they all take off their heads. You can see the poor children looking on in horror as their favorite television characters are all walking around with their heads tucked under their arms, smoking, swearing, and talking with other street characters.

2) The completely unpractical wax paper napkins found in every bar & restaurant. They actually repel water which is a ridiculous concept for a napkin.

3) Feisty Grandmas and Grandpas. Don’t underestimate Spanish Grandpas or Grandmas- they’re unpredictable, uninhibited, and outright scary at times. Do not piss them off. The only reassurance is the fact that we can outrun them.

4) Women in heels. I don’t know how they do it, but I have the upmost respect for all those crazy women walking around the city in heels all day/night long. And I’m not even just talking about the prostitutes. I see 80 year-old Spanish Grandma’s strutting their stuff in heels.

Personally, I’ve given up on wearing heels. But when I’m feeling extra snazzy, I’ll bring a pair of heels in my purse… and probably never slip them on.

5) Doing laundry sucks in general, but doing laundry in Spain is twice the hassle and surprisingly dangerous.

In order to dry clothes, I have to drag the desk chair into our bedroom, stand on the chair, and cautiously maneuver my body halfway out the window to even reach the clothesline. Doing laundry is a pretty dangerous stunt in this country. And anything dropped is a gonner- it ends up in the black hole of clothes and clothespins accumulating in the alley. It serves as a constant reminder to not mess up, because your clothes might be next.

{This is a work in progress, so I’ll continue to add to the list. If you have anything to add/ any ideas, please feel free!}

Best Chinese Food in Madrid…in an Underground Parking Garage?

Hidden in the depths of a dingy, underground parking garage lies one of Madrid’s best-kept secrets… some of the best Chinese food you can find in the city, and on a budget.

Because who doesn’t want to eat Chinese food in a subterranean parking garage?

Informally known as “The Underground Chino” (since it’s official name “Zhou Yulong” is forgotten by… literally everyone) you can find this little gem in Plaza de España near Gran Via.

Here is elegant entrance that gives absolutely no indication that there’s a restaurant below. That’s the beauty of these hidden gems; you will only find locals and the occasional well-informed tourist eating here.

Inside, you will find some of the best, allegedly home-made Chinese dishes here for around 4-5€ each. And as for authenticity, see the documented photo evidence below.

{Although that last person I circled very well might be a poster}

And while “The Underground Chino” may easily be one of the most aesthetically unpleasing restaurants in Madrid, what they lack in decor, they make up through their amazing dishes.

Menu:

Food Recommendations:

• Dumplings (Empanadillas) as an appetizer is a must

• #6 Thick-Cut Homemade Noodle Soup (my personal favorite, pictured below)

• #16 Fried Noodles (Tamarines Fritos) amazing stirfry                            

Warning: If you don’t enjoy little shrimps in your bowl of soup with their little heads and eyes still intact (pictured below), order without shrimp “sin gambas”.

(Below: My sad attempt at making this article amusing)

                                                                                                                                                                                  Empanadillas. We stuffed our faces with all but one dumpling when I remembered to take this horrible photo.

Great for Food, not ambiance: 

This is a great segue to the fact that my boyfriend invited me to “The Underground Chino” on one of our first dates. Fortunately for him, I’m all for hole-in-the-wall places as long as there’s great food involved, even if it means…

√ Trying to slurp down an entire bowl of noodles in front of your date as silently and non-awkwardly as possible

√ Double dating with the strangers sitting an inch away from us

√ Uncomfortably being stared at by hungry people waiting in line for your table

Well, something “magical” must have happened that night at that shabby little underground Chinese Restaurant while we were gazing into each others eyes and slurping down those greasy noodles … because two and a half years later…Ricardo and I are still going strong. I know you were all wondering <—– sarcasm.

And when we’re craving noodles, or needing substantial hangover food after the 2 beers we drank the night before (don’t judge) we still make the 40 minute trek to “The Underground Chino”. 

How to Arrive: 

Metro: Plaza de España (lines 3, 10)

In the Underground parking garage of Plaza España

Prices: Main dishes: around 4-6€

There are only about 6 or 7 small tables at most, so show up “early” if you want a seat. I’d suggest going outside of the typical Spanish eating hours. Get there around 12:00pm-1:00pm, 4:00pm-6:30pm and you should have little problem getting a table.

At peak times, be prepared to wait in line and give the stink eye to the people eating inside. There’s also the option of  ordering take-out and eating in the plaza above.

Has anyone else been here?? // Anyone? // Anyone?? // Beuller? // Feel free to leave comments, stories, experiences, etc.

Layover in Madrid: Take Advantage

Rather than spending your 6 hour layover in Madrid like this…      

   

Why not explore the city a bit?

Madrid is a fantastic city to explore- whether you have 1 hour or an entire day – take advantage.

1) Drop off your luggage in the airport storage lockers located in Terminals 1, 2, and 4.

2) Catch a Taxi/ Airport Express Bus/ Metro depending on how much time you have.

(See my article “Transportation to and from Madrid Barajas Airport”)

3) Enjoy the city

General Suggestions:

• Puerta de Sol = the heart of Madrid. The city’s main plaza where you can stand in the middle of all the hustle & bustle: watch street performers, the not-so-Spanish-mariachi bands, and my favorite, the characters dressed as Sponge Bob, Mickey Mouse, Hello Kitty, and Cookie Monster, walking around half-dressed, holding their “heads”, talking on their mobile phones, and destroying the dreams of the poor children watching them in horror. 
• On a lighter note: go shopping and grab some Spanish tapas in the neighborhood. Stand on “Kilometer 0”, supposedly the center of Spain (located beneath the clock tower). Take a picture with El Oso y el Madroño, The Bear and the Strawberry Tree bronze statue which stands as the symbol of Madrid.

                                                                                                                                                                            Grab a pastry at La Mallorquina or some churros & chocolate at the famous San Gines Chocolatería (dating back to 1890)… or both. Life is short, live it up. 

                                                                                                                                                                                                           The not-so-Spanish Marachi band that always plays in Sol. (pictured below)

• Plaza Mayor: Madrid’s main square; just a 5 minute walk from Puerta de Sol. Grab a calamari sandwich from Cervecería Sol Mayor on Calle Posta on the way. Take a walk around Plaza Mayor and check out all of the strange street characters & performers in the plaza, including the fat Spiderman in a onesie. 
• Spiderman is actually quite friendly & speaks perfect English. Give the guy a euro and take all the pictures you want with him. He gets really into it. 

Metropolis Building, Gran Vía

• El Prado Museum: Spain’s national art museum housing one the finest collections in the world. Check out famous works from Goya, Velazquez, Rubens, Bosch, El Greco and even a restored copy of the Mona Lisa (found in January 2012) painted by a student of Leonardo da Vinci.

• Gran Via: Madrid’s mini “Spanish Broadway” and major shopping district. Go shopping, take a walk up & down the streets, and discover some of Madrid’s iconic buildings like the Metropolis Building. Continue along Gran Vía until you reach the famous Cibeles fountain & Madrid’s old Post Office building.

• Royal Palace: The official residence of the Spanish Royal family (although the Royal Family doesn’t actually live there). Walk through 50 rooms of elaborate decór, tapestries, art, and collections of porcelain, silverware & dishes, furniture, and even a room containing Stradivarius violins, cello, and viola. Also, check out the collection of medieval armory and the Royal Pharmacy on premise.

• Retiro Park: Madrid’s largest park. Rent a boat on the pond, watch the street performers, walk through the rose garden, and relax.
• Aside from relaxing by the pond, my favorite part of the park is the lesser-known Jardines de Cecilio Rodriguez, the garden along the street Avenida de Menendez Pelayo. The garden is absolutely beautiful, but the best part is following around the peacocks walking around freely.

Or spend the day like this…

                                                           Desperation at its finest.

This may be a practical invention, but you’ll still look like a douchebag.

Transportation to / from Madrid Barajas Airport

Madrid transport options & information-  all in one place for you. 

Taxi: This option is for those who have money to spare… or have packed enough for all four seasons in a week trip (you know, just in case).Taking a taxi  is the most convenient, but also the most expensive option. Be prepared to pay around 20-60€ from the airport to the city, depending on your final destination.

Taxi drivers will add an airport surcharge, luggage surcharge, “surcharge just-because-they-feel-like-it” surcharge, the “you’re-a-foreigner-so-you-won’t-notice” surcharge, and the “oops-my-finger-slipped-on-the-meter-and-I-accidentally-pressed-the-surcharge-button” surcharge. Ok, maybe it’s not quite this bad, but you get the idea.

 Warning: Do not accept rides with taxi drivers inside the Airport terminal, as they might be frauds and will rip you off. Walk outside to the designated taxi stops.

                                                                                                                               Tipping: You do not need to tip the taxi driver unless he did a special service for you (like help with your suitcases) and even then, he probably added the surcharge to the bill already. If you’re feeling particularly giving, you can round up your bill. For example, if you owe 9.75, leave 10. You may feel like a jackass leaving a 15 cent tip, but any tip is unexpected for the drivers. Tipping is not a custom in Spain.                                                                                                                                                                             

24 Hour-Airport Express Bus:

24 hour transportation to/ from the airport. Just ask the information desk at the airport to point you in the direction of the Airport Express Bus stop. The bus stop locations are: O’Donnel, Cibeles, Atocha.

If none of these stops is your final destination you can take the Metro (Underground)   or a taxi from any of these locations.

These guys look absolutely miserable.

Frequency: Bus runs every 15 minutes during the day | every 35 minutes at night.

Price: One of the cheaper airport transportation options. For a single journey, pay the busdriver 5€ cash once you get on.

Duration: On their website they say the trip takes around 40 minutes depending on traffic.

In addition, get a quick quick preview of Madrid and some of its major landmarks: Puerta de Alcalá, Cibeles fountain, the Post Office, El Pirulí, Neptune Fountain, Atocha Train Station.

Puerta de Alcalá

Madrid’s Post Office

Disadvantages: They tend to fill up the bus to maximum capacity. The trip can be a bit uncomfortable if you’re traveling at peak times as they pack as many people as physically possible in the aisles along with their suitcases and bags.

                                                                                                                                                                                   I’ve been on the bus when a woman and her daughter hesitated at their bus stop for a moment, then they couldn’t grab their bags and push their way towards the exit in time, so the bus driver closed the doors and drove on with no remorse. So be prepared and have an idea of where you need to get off.

Bus timetables: http://www.emtmadrid.es/lineaaeropuerto/horarios.html

Information Sheet: http://www.gomadrid.com/transport/Airport-Express.pdf

Metro (Underground):

One of the cheaper transportation options. The price of a single journey to/from the airport 4.50€ (1.50€ single journey ticket + 3€ airport surcharge).

 Madrid’s Metro is considered one of the best subways in the world. It’s extensive, clean, and extremely easy to follow. It’s color & number coordinated with arrows pointing you exactly where you need to go… which is perfect for those not blessed with a good sense of direction (like yours truly). 

Here are PDFs of Madrid’s Metro Map:               http://www.metromadrid.es/export/sites/metro/comun/documentos/planos/Planoesquematicoespanol.pdf

http://www.metromadrid.es/export/sites/metro/comun/documentos/planos/Planobasecartografica.pdf

Keep in mind, it might be a difficult journey if you’re lugging around several heavy suitcases. Also, you may need to change Metro lines a few times, and some metro stations don’t have elevators. A trip from the Airport to the center of the city will take about 45 minutes.

{Metro Passes are also valid for the local EMT Madrid buses.}

Single-trip = Riding from 1-5 metro stations: 1.50€.

6-9 stations: 1.60€-1.90€

More than 9 stations: 2€

10-trip pass = 12€ 

Depending on your plans, the Madrid Tourist Travel Pass might be a better option for you. This pass includes trips on the Metro, local buses, suburban train, and inner-city light railway for 1, 2, 3, 5, or 7 days.

How to Purchase: You can purchase this pass online, in which case you will be sent a receipt that can be exchanged for the actual ticket itself at the Madrid Metro Customer Service Desk “Centro de Atención al Cliente”. This desk is located outside the Metro Station at Terminal 2 of Madrid’s airport (open every day 7am to 10pm).

You can also purchase the Tourist Travel Pass at the tourist office located in Plaza Mayor.

For more information on purchasing the pass, go here: http://www.gomadrid.com/transport/travel-pass.html

 *Children under 11 pay half price.

Type of Tourist Travel Pass	Price
Zone A, 1 Day	8€
Zone A, 2 Days	13.40€
Zone A, 3 Days	17.40€
Zone A, 5 Days	25.40€
Zone A, 7 Days	33.40€

Aerocity Airport Shuttle:

A specialized taxi service that operates 24 hours. They will pick you up/take you to the airport comfortably in a 7-seater, air-conditioned van. The prices are extremely reasonable. This is a great option if you’re traveling with your family… and you tend to overpack.

 Aerocity Information: http://www.gomadrid.com/aerocity/

# of Passengers	Total Price (weekdays)	TOTAL Price (22:00h-6:00h), weekends, holidays.
1	24 €	27 €
2	24 €	27 €
3	24 €	27 €
4	27 €	29 €
5	42 €	45 €
6	44 €	48 €

Renfe Cercanias:

Spain’s Suburban rail network; one of the cheapest options. Line C-1 will take you to Madrid Barajas Airport, Terminal 4, where you can grab a free bus to another terminal if necessary.  

Frequency to/ from airport T4 (terminal 4) = every 30 minutes.

Price: 2.15€ single journey

{*Free for those who have an Ave ticket and have to catch a connecting flight}

Once at the airport, free buses can take you from T4 to T1, T2, T3.

Schedule: 5:15am- 11:30pm to the airport| 5:59am- 12:15am to Príncipe Pío

Cercanias Map: http://www.renfe.com/viajeros/cercanias/madrid/mapa_zonas_madrid.html

Airport Terminals: On your return trip, to find out which terminal you´re leaving from, click here & scroll down: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Madrid-Barajas_Airport

Feel free leave comments, ask questions, make suggestions, say hi, talk about life, puppies, whatever.           

                                                                                                                                                                                                                 

Homesick in Madrid? Top 4 Places for American Expats

Top 4 places for when:

• you’re missing home
• you’re craving high-fructose corn syrup and preservatives
• you want to eat your feelings
• you’d kill someone for peanut butter/ a bagel with salmon & cream cheese/ Reeses
  

1.  Happy Day Bakery

A very cutesy, colorful bakery & American market that takes you back to New York cerca 1960’s: from the furniture, the wallpaper, and the classic oldies playing in the background.

What you can find: cupcakes, muffins, cookies, brownies, bagels, cakes, ice cream, hot dogs, candy, smoothies, milkshakes, etc.

The bakery also sells American products: Campbell’s Soup, Dr. Pepper, Lucky Charms, Cheerios, peanut butter, Hershey’s chocolate syrup, Reeses, Macaroni & Cheese,  Vanilla Coke, Jack Daniels Barbecue Sauce, pancake mix & syrup, cake mixes, and brownie mixes.

Address: Calle del Espíritu Santo 9, Madrid
Website: http://www.happydaybakery.es

Cakes:

Carrot Cake

NY Cheesecake

Super-Chocolate

Red Velvet

Brownie

There’s no better cure to home-sickness than stuffing your face with a NY cheesecake.

Buy a slice, or better yet, an entire cake and pretend like you’re going to share it with friends.

2.Peggy Sue’s American Diner

An amazing 1950’s American-style diner with WORKING jukeboxes. Jam to 50’s classics as you stuff your face with the James Brown Hamburger (a personal favorite), fries smothered in ketchup and mustard, and a chocolate milkshake. What’s not to love about this place.

Locations in Spain: http://www.peggysues.es/contacto
Website: http://www.peggysues.es

3. J&J Books and Coffee

In 2003, an American girl and her Spanish husband decided to convert a Chinese restaurant in Madrid into their dream Bookstore/ Coffee shop/ Pub.

Address: Calle del Espíritu Santo 47, Madrid
Website: http://www.jandjbooksandcoffee.com

A place to go when you’ve given-up learning Spanish (yet again). A nice place to grab drinks, chat with travellers, expats, friends, and later relax with a good book in their library / bookstore downstairs. Browse through their huge collection of second-hand books in English. You can also buy & sell books.

Browse their collection here: http://www.jandjbooksandcoffee.com/php/browse.php

Trivia nights = Friday nights at 11pm. I’ve gone once, and it was a major blow to my self-esteem. Of all the questions, I knew the answers to a whopping 3. So don’t think it will be all easy-peasy just because it’s in English.

                                                                They also organize activities including: intercambios (Wednesday & Thursday nights), karaoke (the activity I make sure to steer clear from, for everyone else’s well-being), happy hours, and holiday parties.

 

4. Taste of America

Where you can find tons & tons of American products in their brick-and-mortar & online stores.

Website: www.tasteofamerica.es

Madrid Locations:

• Metro: Republica Argentina or Nuevos Ministerios| Serrano 149
• Metro: Isla Filipinas| C/CEA Bermudez 60, Madrid 28003
• Metro: Las Suertes or La Gavia| Avd. Ensanche de Vallecas 4749
• Avd. de Europa 23, Pozuelo de Alarcón
• C/ Francisco Umbral 14, Majadahonda

Guiri Guide: Getting your hair cut in Spain

Spanish Hair Salon Lingo: Guiris helping Guiris

Are you living in/ visiting Spain and desperately need to get your hair cut?

Have you heard horror stories about hair salon experiences in Spain?

Are you scared that using the little Spanish you know, you might end up with a bowl cut, a bright pink weave, or bangs?

Are you seriously considering taking scissors to your own hair?

 Put the scissors down. 

I am an American girl who’s been living Madrid for the past year & 9 months, during which I’ve gotten my hair cut in Spain a whopping 3 times.

I am proud to say that I have recently overcome my fear of Spanish hair salons after a horrifying experience involving an 80-year old hair stylist, a dirty salon reeking of tobacco and burnt hair, a spray water bottle, and a razor blade.(Read my “Hair Salon Horrors” post if you’re curious). Well, paying just  5€ for a hair cut, I suppose I had it coming.

So, while I’m no expert the subject, I’ve decided to at least lay-out some hair salon lingo for my fellow Guiris trying to get a decent hair cut in Spain, a country where the hair stylists often do what they want anyway.

• How to make an appointment
• How to explain what services you’re interested in
• How to explain what hairstyle you want
• Tipping- is it necessary?

Use this vocabulary below, be clear and firm while explaining what you want, sit down in the salon chair, close your eyes, and pray. Good luck.

Now, I wouldn’t say I’m your go-to girl about which salon to go to, unless you’re just getting your ends trimmed or you’re looking for an inexpensive solution.

There’s a Spanish hair salon chain called Marco Aldany that’s clean, has extremely reasonable prices, and found on just about every corner throughout the country.

They have over 400 locations in Spain. I’ve always had very good experiences with Marco Aldany-  no complaints here. 

Making an Appointment

1. Go in person. You may find they can take you right then and there. If not, just take a seat and wait your turn.
2. Call by telephone.

To make an appointment –  hacer una cita

Date – fecha

Day – día

Time (of day) – la hora

Days of the Week

Monday	Tuesday	Wednesday	Thursday	Friday	Saturday	Sunday
lunes	martes	miércoles	jueves	viernes	sábado	domingo

Time (of day)

At 9:00 o’clock in the morning	At noon	At 4 in the afternoon	At 5:30
A las nueve de la mañana	Al mediodía	A las cuatro de la tarde	A las cinco y media

I want to make an appointment on Thursday at 6pm. 

Quiero hacer una cita en jueves a las seis de la tarde. 

I want to make an appointment to cut my hair on Monday morning.

Quiero hacer una cita para cortarme el pelo el lunes de la mañana.

Phrases in the Salon

 Dedos (fingers) is a unit of measure in Spain.

I want my hair cut 3 fingers shorter. 

Quiero cortarme el pelo tres dedos.

I want my hair cut up to here. (showing with hands)

Quiero cortarme el pelo hasta aquí.

I want… Quiero…	make an appointment – hacer una cita
I would like… Me gustaría…	to get my haircut – cortarme el pelo
I don’t want… No quiero…	layers – capas
I like this one – Éste me gusta	long layers –  a capas largas
I don’t like it – No me gusta / Eso no me gusta	short layers – a capas cortas
Do you speak English? –¿Hablas inglés?	just the ends – sólo las puntas
I’m sorry but… – Lo siento pero…	to clip the ends – cortar las puntas
That’s good/that’s ok/ that’s enough – Está bien	bangs – flequillo
How much does X cost? – ¿Cuánto cuesta X?	short hair – el pelo corto
How much would X cost? – ¿Cuánto costaría X?	long hair – el pelo largo
Do you have…? – Tienes…?	curly hair – el pelo rizado
	straight / straightened hair – el pelo liso
	deep treatment – tratamiento profundo
	deep conditioner – acondicionador intenso
	to dye my brown hair, blonde –teñir el pelo castaño a rubio
	dye my hair blonde – pintar el pelo de rubio
	highlights – reflejos
	to style one’s hair – peinarse
	in back – por detrás
	in front – por delante

Tipping

Tipping is by no means obligatory. Yet, leaving between 5-10% is considered good etiquette, especially if you think they did a good job and you intend on returning.

More Vocabulary

a little – un poco/ un poquito

a lot – mucho

to apply – aplicar

application – aplicación

appointment – cita

beauty salon – la peluquería

base tone – tono base

voluminous hair – pelo voluminoso

bleach – decolorante/ blanqueador

to bleach – decolorar

blonde hair – pelo rubio

blowdryer – secadora

to blow dry – secar a mano

bob (hairstyle) – corte bob

bobby pin – pinza/ horquilla

braids – trenzas

to brush (verb) – cepillar

bun – moño

breakage (of hair) – quebramiento

chin length – a la altura de la barbilla

to condition (verb) – acondicionar

to curl – rizar

curlers (rollers) – rolos

curling iron – plancha rizadora

haircut – corte de pelo

to cut – cortar

dandruff – caspa

to dry one’s hair – secarse el pelo

to dye – teñir/ tintar

ends (tips of hair) – las puntas

eyebrows – cejas

eyebrow shaping – modelado de cejas

eyebrow threading – depilación de cejas con hilo

fine hair – pelo fino

french braid – trenza francesa

front (part of hairdo) – la parte delantera

to get a haircut – cortarse el pelo

highlights – reflejos

flat iron – plancha de pelo

hair mask – mascarilla capilar

hair removal – depilación

hair stylist (person) – peluquera

hair weave – tejido de cabello

hairline – nacimiento de pelo

half ponytail – media cola

hair style – peinado

hair spray – fijador

an inch (measurement) – una pulgada

inch and a half – pulgada y media

in back – por detrás

in front – por delante

in layers – en capas/ a capas

the part (hair- noun) – la raya

to part (hair- verb) – partir

relaxer- alisador

roots – raíces

to shampoo (verb) – lavar el pelo

spray (noun) – espray

streaks – reflejos/ mechas

to style (hair- verb) – peinarse

to thin (out your hair- verb) – desfilar

tips (ends of hair) – las puntas

waxing – depilación con cera

{Feel free to share your own hair salon experiences, good or bad. Leave any recommendations. Comments. Thoughts. Whatever.}

Churros & Chocolate: Calling all Chocolate Lovers

Golden, greasy, crunchy pieces of goodness dunked in hot, thick chocolate; the perfect combination.

Quick Churro Facts:

• Churros are traditionally Spanish, yet have spread to several South American countries and North America during the last 100 years
• Churros are long sticks of fried dough that are meant to be dunked into very thick, hot, pudding-like, chocolate
• Despite common beliefs, churros do NOT come with cinnamon! (Taco Bell just does that for us Americans who think everything tastes better deep-fried and smothered in sugar)
• Churros = refer to the long thin pieces
• Porras = thicker churros
• Chocolate a la taza = the cup of chocolate to dunk your churros/ porras in
• Where: You can find churros at churrerías, chocolaterías, and most cafeterías
• When: Breakfast/ Snack/ Late-night treat

Chocolateria San Ginés

Metro: Sol                                                                                                                                               Address: Pasadizo de San Ginés 5, Madrid, 28012                                                                     Hours:  Open 24 hours                                                                                                                                 Prices: 3.70€ for 1 cup of chocolate and 6 pieces of churros/ or 4 porras (thick, shorter pieces)

Madrid’s most famous churros bar – where the early risers and the late-night partiers unite over their craving of San Ginés’ churros and thick hot chocolate.

San Ginés, located smack in the center of Madrid, has been in business for over 100 years (since 1894).

Customers constantly rave about San Ginés saying that it’s an absolute must-do, and well-worth the wait. 

The process at San Gines is a bit backwards. You need to enter, order at the counter, and get a ticket to be able to sit at a table… but often, it’s difficult to snatch a table after ordering your food. If you’re in a group of 2+, I advise one person scout out a table while the other orders at the counter inside and gets a ticket. 

Only cash is accepted; no cards. If they see a card, the people working there all freak-out and chant in unison, “no cards, no cards, no cards.”

Unfortunately, San Gines has become mainly a tourist spot due to its fame. You will rarely find locals eating here.

Sitting on the terrace is a very pleasant area to relax, people watch, and listen to performers. 

Take a look inside the churreria as well; there are photographs on display of all of the celebrities who have eaten at San Ginés.

Valor

Valor is the Willie Wonka Factory equivalent of churros con chocolate. They have been experts in chocolate making since 1881. They  are especially famous for their chocolate bars, candies (bombones), and drinking chocolates.

 On their website you can follow their chocolate-making process with a virtual tour. They claim that their factory “is equipped with state-of-the-art technology and precision machinery” (or the work of thousands of Spanish Oompa Loompas).

At Valor, you can find an extensive menu with varieties of chocolate a la taza flavors including: milk, dark, white, cinnamon, banana, orange.

Valor also serves: ice-cream, milkshakes, coffees & teas, chocolate candies, chocolate fondues, and pastries.

Valor’s atmosphere is slightly more upscale. And their prices, a bit higher compared to other cafes in the area; but it’s definitely worth it.

The churros at Valor (pictured below) do not have the usual “gear-shape” like the first photo shown above. They also seem a bit heavier and greasier in comparison. However, personally, I like the chocolate better at Valor than at San Ginés (GASP!) The chocolate is a bit sweeter.

Madrid Locations:

• Metro: Callao| Calle Postigo de San Martín 7, 28013
• Metro: Ibiza| Calle Ibiza 33, 28009
• Metro: Lista| Calle Conde Peñalver 43, 28006
• Metro: Acacias| Calle Ceiba 2, 28005

Hours: Monday- Friday 9am-10:30pm| Saturday 9am-1am| Sunday 9am-12am

Website: http://www.valor.es/valor.asp

Enjoying churros at Valor on C/ Postigo de San Martín in Madrid

Have you been to San Gines, Valor, any other Churreria? Feel free to leave comments about any experiences, suggestions, reviews, etc.

Hair Salon Horrors: A (both hilarious & unfortunate) personal testimony

Unless you want your hair to be cut by an 80-year-old woman who, in the midst of Spain’s worst economic crisis, woke up one day and decided to become a hair stylist, don’t go here.

Never, never, again will I trust flyers. Oiy. I honestly think that I’m the only girl who receives a flyer off the street that says “5 euros for a haircut” and thinks, “Oh wow! What a great deal, I’m definitely going to get my haircut at this place.” Then, folds the flyer nicely, puts it in her pocket, and actually returns the same week and  makes it a point to get her haircut there.

That’s exactly what I did, and I followed the address on the flyer to the second story of an apartment building. I knocked on the door and waited for about 30 seconds. No answer. In retrospect, I should’ve taken this golden opportunity to leave, I think any normal person would have. Yet, I was strangely persistent that day.

So, I knocked harder. Still, nothing. Then I literally banged on the door for 30 straight seconds and finally the door creaked open and an old woman appeared.

“Hola,” I said in my nervous Guiri accent,“I would like a haircut.” 

She led me into the room, which reeked of tobacco and burnt hair.  I walked through the smoke-filled haze while trying to dodge the piles of upswept hair. All of the furniture in the room was either an a brown, burnt orange, or mustard yellow color. I felt like I was in the twilight zone, or on the set of The Brady Bunch.

The lady must have been 80 years old. It was like she woke up one day during the economic crisis and said, “Well, I’m going to cut hair today. I’ll just convert my apartment into a dirty, old hair salon.

This is an actual photo of her I found online. She looks so sweet and harmless, I actually feel a little bit sorry for writing this, but… this woman really shouldn’t be cutting hair.

At this point, it was too late to walk out. I made such a commotion banging on the front door for the past 5 minutes, I couldn’t leave now. She told me to wait as she finished up with another customer.

I sat in one of the brown, torn nylon salon chairs while flipping through years-old Spanish gossip magazines. Once it was my turn, I closed the magazine and nervously walked over to the chair near the window and awaited my fate.

Instead of washing my hair or even asking me if I wanted my hair washed, she deliberately reached for a spray bottle of water. About fifty sprays later, my hair looked like a wet mop.

Looking pleased, she grabbed a claw and pinned my hair half-up. I tried so hard no to think about how many heads that claw had been in.

Cousin It from the Adams Family.

 Then she asked me to flip my head over, my chin pressed to my chest. I followed her directions, wondering how she could possibly cut my hair with me sitting in this ridiculous position. I looked like Cousin It from the Addams Family.  Then, I heard scissors clipping.

I must have looked horrified because the hairdresser slapped me on the back and reassured me, “Don’t worry.”

My hair fell to the ground in clumps. Once she was finished, she instructed me to sit up straight, you know, the way you sit while they cut your hair in normal salons. Then she reached for a razor blade (exactly like the one pictured below). Either

1) this 80-year-old woman was going to murder me

2) she had decided that shaving my head would be my best option or

3)  she needed something to cut her ham sandwich.

Without consulting me, she took the razor blade between her two fingers and started using it on my shorter hairs in the front. Scared that bangs were in my foreseeable future, I spoke up. I’m a relatively shy girl and usually tend to go with the flow in these types of awkward situations, but bangs crossed the line.

My own voice shocked myself as I said, “No, no, no, nooo. I don’t want this.”

She paused briefly, and started with the razor blade again while trying to convince me that actually, I did really want this.

Again, I cried out, “NO! Nooo, stop.” 

She sighed, put the razor blade down, and reached again for the scissors.

By now, my hair was dry in some parts, sopping wet in others, curling in some parts, and not in others; but this didn’t faze her in the slightest. She just kept on snipping away. When she seemed pleased with the outcome, she finally put the scissors down. The battle was over.

I didn’t even bother looking at myself in the mirror. I quickly fished through my purse, handed her a 5 euro bill, and got the hell out of there. Luckily it was raining that day, so it didn’t seem so strange that my hair was sopping wet as I stepped out into the street.

And I looked like this guy

I felt like this guy

My trip home was another awkward situation after another; nothing short of a normal day in my life. First, I chased after my bus while all of the passengers inside simply stared at me with dumb, blank expressions. I surprised myself by keeping up with the bus for a good 15 seconds until it pulled out ahead of me without stopping although I had been banging on the glass door with my fist. I accepted defeat, retreated to the bus stop, and waited 20 more minutes for the next bus.

Now, THIS busdriver ended up passing my bus stop on the highway. So, when he saw little ‘ol me standing awkwardly at the exit, staring back at him in his rear-view mirror…

…he slammed on the breaks. At this point, I had a good 10 minute walk in the pouring rain along the highway to show-off my atrocious new hair cut.

I reviewed the damage once I got home. Now, I’m not one to get my hair done at fancy shmancy salons; my hair grows so damn fast that spending $60 on a haircut hardly seems justifiable. Usually, I settle for the local Best Cuts or Super Cuts and don’t complain too much about the outcome. But after my visit to Manoli’s, I was tempted to go back to have her use that razor blade she was so keen on using, to shave what was left.

The end. But seriously, all of this happened.

Here are a couple actual online reviews I found for Manoli’s:

“Entering Manoli’s Hair Salon is like entering some type of Almodovar movie: the decor, the orange walls, and piercing screams suggest this.”

(Here’s another review. 5 stars? Seriously?) “Manoli’s Hair Salon. Cheap as it is bizarre.”

El Rastro: Madrid’s famous flea market

Today, El Rastro is one of the largest European street markets with thousands of stands set up along the winding, narrow streets and plazas in the area. 

During the 17th and 18th centuries, El Rastro was a meat market. In fact, the name El Rastro meaning “the trail”, comes from the bloodstain trails of the animals sold in these markets.

Today however, it may be worrisome if you’re in the market and you find bloodstain trails.

Quick Rastro Facts

When: Sundays & Public Holidays 9:00am- 3:00pm (the earlier the better to avoid big crowds)

Where:  Plaza de Cascorro is the market center. The edges of the market are outlined by                              Embajadores and Ronda de Toledo.

How to Arrive:             Metro- LaLatina (Line 5- Green)

Puerta de Toledo (Line 5- Green)

                                    Tirso de Molina (Line 1- Blue) plus a 5 minute walk.

                                  Taxi- Tell the taxi driver to drop you off at Ronda de Toledo

                                  Walking– Just a 15 minute walk from Puerta del Sol

Bargaining is acceptable, although several stalls may have fixed prices.

You can find anything from…

electrical things (adapters, converters, headphones, etc.)
beautiful, hand-made jewelry
ugly, cheap jewelry
antiques of all sorts
samurai swords
old coins & stamps
books, old Spanish newspapers, magazines, comic books
artwork, crafts, posters
CDs, DVDs, video games
scarves, scarves, scarves… and more scarves
leather bags, purses
clothes, shoes, sandals
sunglasses, hats
cosmetics
kitchenware
lightbulbs, batteries, ink cartridges, pocket knives
work tools
old furniture

 

                                                                                                                                                                                         In the stands, closer to Ronda de Toledo, you can find authentic antiques, old newspapers, and comic books.

Personally, I love these vintage clocks.I noticed this red gramophone the last time I went to the market.

…and I’m almost tempted to buy it for 2 main reasons.

1) To watch people’s reactions as I carry this bad boy through the streets. (Keep in mind that I’m barely 5ft, and extremely awkward, so it would be hilarious).

2) To put it in our teeny 40m-squared apartment, then leave. So, when my boyfriend comes home from work, he find this..

 … a gigantic, red gramophone sitting on the table with no explanation.

 

                                                                                                                                                                                               On a separate note, I can’t believe I seriously just wasted the last 15 minutes of my life photoshopping a gramophone into our living room.

                                                                                                                                                                                       Some Rastro WARNINGS: Don’t be surprised if…

 

you find weird, broken, used, and/or unexplainable crap being sold, like:

• Used bottles of hand soap, in clear containers that unmistakably have 15 pumps remaining (At least they’re… honest?)

• 20 year-old, broken mobile phones that weigh as much as a small child

• Used, rusty silverware

• Noticeably used hairbrushes with the vendor’s hairs still stuck in the bristles

• Gas masks

• Little sarcophaguses… sarcophagai?

 

Guess the price… 

How much do you think this extremely creepy chef man is?

(scroll down for answer)

 

 125 euros?! I would pay someone to take this thing out of my home. Imagine this guy winking at you all day with that creepy face and giving you thumbs up? On second thought, this might be strangely encouraging.

                                                                                                                                                                                        Great Tapas in the AreaEl Capricho Extremeño

Address: Calle de Carlos Arniches 30, Metro Puerta de Toledo, 28005 Madrid

Area: Lavapiés, Embajadores

Hours: Saturday & Sunday, 11:00am-3:30pm

Prices: Tostas 2€-3€. Drinks 1.5€.

An incredible variety of toasts with toppings: ham, chorizo, salmon, gulas, shrimp, octopus, tuna, lacón, spanish tortilla, etc.

My personal favorites are pulpo a la gallega (octopus) and jamón serrano (serrano ham).

{Zoom-in on the Jealous faces.} Ha, this cracks me up.

General Rastro Tips: 

Especially for those of you with little street smarts (like yours truly). I’m giving you some tips! (The blind leading the blind, I suppose).

• Arrive around 9-10am if you prefer avoiding the crowds
• Watch for pickpockets, even on your way to the market. Pickpockets know that thousands of people are arriving by metro, so they plan accordingly (sneaky son of a gun, as my grandma would say). Wait, if it’s plural is it “sons of a gun” or  maybe “sons of guns”? hmmm, deep.
• Bring a purse that zips completely
• Wear your backpack on the front. (Yes, it’s super dorky, but it’s not like you’re ever going to see these people again)
• Carry small bills/ change

Wander around aimlessly. Have fun. Take it all in. And let me know if you run into these guys…